Let's Take It From The Top

July 25, 2011

The first hint of morning light revealed the treetops of Abol Campground at Baxter State Park in Maine as the robins began their morning routine.  This was no day to lay abed and enjoy their frenetic singing from the comfort of my down sleeping bag.  Today was summit day.

I had met my hiking friend Hirsch at Abol Bridge the previous afternoon as he exited Maine's legendary Hundred Mile Wilderness.  The Wilderness is the longest section of the Appalachian Trail without a paved road crossing and I consider it one of the Trail's gems with its uninterrupted opportunity to enjoy the rugged beauty of Maine.  As per Hirsch's request, I brought two bags of fresh fruit and goodies to share with he and any other thru-hikers who happened along.  After 2160 trail miles it's fresh fruit that they crave the most.  When I found him, Hirsch was sitting at a picnic table with Peach, a young woman with whom I had lunch at Bryant Ridge Shelter on April 26 on my second last day on the trail this spring.  What a surprise!  I then spent the rest of that day shuttling hikers into and around Millinocket, their last trail town and resupply before the final climb of the Trail,  Mt. Katahdin.

Peach and Hirsch at Abol Bridge, ME

The Penobscot tribe referred to the mountain as "Katahdin" which translates as "The Greatest Mountain".  For the average AT hiker it is the greatest as it is purported to be the longest single climb along the length of the trail.  There are taller mountains but none can compare to Katahdin, a monolith visible from 30 miles away as it rises unexpectedly from the surrounding flat land.

Over many attempts to thru-hike the AT, amassing almost 4000 trail miles along the way, Mt. Katahdin has stood like a beacon drawing me onward.  Each trip south to the AT required me to pass Katahdin along the way, its snow-capped peak an image to sustain me through many long days on the trail.  Whenever I would tell other hikers where I lived they would say: "Then you must have climbed Katahdin already." 
"No...no I haven't", I'd reply, "I'm saving Katahdin for when I've completed the whole trail."
After eleven frustrating years of illness, homesickness, and injuries the goal of completing the whole trail in one year seems as elusive as ever.  Just how a mile high mountain made of granite can continue to slip through my fingers like an elusive down feather is beyond me.  The email from Hirsch asking if I wanted to summit Katahdin with him was like that elusive feather gracefully floating down to land on my still, open hand.  Here is your gift my friend.  Do with it what you will.

As I slung the small day pack with water, rain jackets, and lunch over my shoulder the trail was just visible enough for us to proceed.  We were hoping the five a.m. start would allow Hirsch some quiet time at the summit before the other thru-hikers appeared to celebrate success in their own fashion.  In order to complete a loop hike we decided to climb to the summit via the Abol trail and then descend along the AT to Katahdin Stream Campsite. 

Hirsch on Abol Trail

After 2.8 miles of steep climbing over loose scree we met up with the AT at Thoreau Spring.  From there it's an easy mile across the Tableland to the end of the Trail.  In honour of Hirsch's request for some quiet time by himself I held back while he climbed the last 500 yards to the summit. 



A Quiet Time

If that photo seems a bit blurry it's no different from the image I saw through tear-filled eyes as I took my final steps to the summit.   After eleven years and literally months on the trail here I was, only four hours drive from home, finally reaching the top of mythical Katahdin.  I'll let the following photos speak for themselves.

Hirsch at Katahdin Summit



Shuk at Katahdin Summit



Hirsch atop Katahdin, 100 Mile Wilderness in Background

As a light breeze whispered across my face I felt like a bird aloft with a view stretching to infinity.
It's interesting what a man can do with a single feather.